June is for Multipitch!

Diegothinkingonthe6c

junio 22, 2015 | Posted in Malta, Multipitches, Sport climbing | By

Looking for the abseil point! & At the platform… ready to start climbing!

The very first route that appears in the Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo guidebook is PLUNDER ★★★
2 years in Malta and we had never tried before??!! No way!! Lets go for it.

We woke up at a properly Spanish time last Saturday, we had a big Spanish breakfast and we started driving to the South at 11 am. Yes, on our day off we are not actually early birds :)

We drove through the outskirts of Zurrieq and we kept following the directions of the book, but to be honest I don’t think we found the parking where the guidebook says you should park. We end up in a path with room for our car so we just left it there. We crossed some private gardens towards the sea and finally we reached the edge of the 60 m cliff. There is for sure a better way to reach the route, but we couldn’t manage to find it.

To place the route in the guidebook they say Wied Il-Hallelin (Wied in Maltese means valley), but Google Maps says Wied Diegu which we liked a lot more! It is near to a Prehistoric site. Good luck! 😀

Party cloudy day is always perfect for multipitches. We were happy because the route was already on the sun. :)
Plunder is a superb sea cliff multipitch consists of 5 pitches: 5c (20 m), 5c (15 m), 6a (10 m), 6c (12 m) and 5c (20 m). Now it is rebolted and in perfect conditions.

First you have to abseil from the top. You can abseil it in three times (there are three anchors in total), but if you have an 80 m rope you can make it in two times. Your rope probably ends up in the water when you through it before the last rapel… It’s what it is! :)

So start the route in a platform over the sea… That is beautiful itself, perfect starting! The whole route is amazing! Slab climbing technic and balance… don’t leave them at home because you will need them! :)

Diegothinkingonthe6c

Diego looking at the 6c !

We have to say we found a little bit challenging the second pitch, thinking of it as the 5c the guidebooks says… wow! It is traverse to the right a little bit scary… I might say it is a 6a+ at least! :)

The most beautiful pitch is the 6c so far! Quality of the rock is very good during the whole route excepting the middle part on the 6a+, some rocks might be broken.

For us, we can say it is the best multipitch in Malta! Thanks to the bolters and the re-bolters! Great job!!!! :)

Slabby wall pitch. Photo stop!

Slabby wall pitch. Photo stop!

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